Final FESPACO installment

J-F gets up at 4am to go scout locations for his next doc. It’s about the slaves that are still in Africa near the Mali/Burkina border. White Touaregs own Black slaves and the slaves have no desire to be free. Interesting. The pictures he brings back later in the afternoon are amazing. That Canon 5D is a beast.

I have more meetings all afternoon still running about town on a scooter. Just as I get into the rhythm, it’s time to leave. J-F and I were laughing because we just met but it seemed like we’d known each other forever. That’s the great thing about travel, you can travel thousands of miles only to find the best friends that you’ve never met, yet. Sometimes there is no learning curve, it’s all so natural.

There were lots a good people here, Shivani, JoAnna, Christina, Richard, all the wonderful African filmmakers and the beautiful people of Burkina Faso. I guess it was worth all the trouble and chaos to come. So goodbye and thanx Burkina!

This should be the end of the story, credits rolling but WAIT! There’s more….

As I sit waiting in the Burkina airport, dying of thirst (I got rid of all my money so I cant buy anything and remember they don’t take Mastercard) guess who shows up and is on my flight and alone? My crush! Filmmaker Newton Aduwaka. Yes, that’s me dancing in the aisle! Does it get any better than this? It sure does...

We have a great conversation, exchange films and he buys me a drink. Life is good. Now you can roll credits as I drop the mic and walk off stage…

-- FIN--

Homeless in Ouaga Pt 12

What do you mean it’s time to leave? I was just learning to swear in French and not like a Frenchman: Va te faire foute, connard! Ok that’s enough or I’ll be banned in yet another language.

It’s hard to tell what day it is, they all blend together. Everyone is constantly asking the day and date. One of the Canadian filmmakers had marked his guide with all the movies he wanted to see, only to find out he was a day early—back to the drawing/scheduling board.

It’s soooo hot 102-105 degrees and there’s very little shade. We are land locked on the edge of the Sahara Desert.

FESPACO has concluded and everyone is preparing to leave. Michael and Calvin left before the close and I’m also gathering my things to leave. The hotel has me sign some form for FESPACO and have me pay for incidentals. I have a car arranged to take me to the airport and I do some last minute shopping on the back of a motor scooter. It’s fun. I go by J-F’s to use his computer to skype Paris only to find out my flight isn’t until, what? Oh no! Tomorrow. But I’ve packed and checked out! We call the Relax ‘Don’t Do It’ Hotel and they say I was only booked through today. But FESPACO booked both the hotel and airline ticket. OMG, I‘m homeless. I see myself wander the streets of Ouaga all night with my luggage, maybe I could sell phone cards. That’s a popular free lance job here.

No one else is very concerned or think this is a big problem. (Of course not, they have a place to sleep) Someone suggest we go eat and party cause after all, hey hey, you’ve got another day with us in Ouaga. Are these people crazy?

Jean-Francois tells me not to worry that I can sleep in his room, he has two beds. Voila, problem solved—let’s go eat! Not only do i have a place to stay but it also fulfills my other wish: I’m staying at the HOTEL INDEPENDENCE! Yeah! I’m strutting around now like I own the place. I do, I have a key!

JoAnna wants to treat us all to dinner at an Italian restaurant where we will meet a couple of her friends. The restaurant was surreal, like a scene out of a movie. Sitting in the heart of Africa in an outdoor Italian garden. The 8 of us were having a great time. Suddenly one of the filmmakers from Chad spots this gorgeous woman sitting at a table alone. She didn’t look like a person having dinner alone. She had a joy about her like she was anticipating something wonderful. He leaves us to join her at her table and they get into a very animated discussion. We are having so much fun at our table that we forget about them. Finally he comes back and everyone starts drilling him. He gives up bits of info and promises to write a full report. There’s a phrase in Burkina when asking about a woman they say, “She’s a good actress.”

Still sitting alone at her table we all beckon her over to join us. She’s very delightful and beautiful. All the guys eyes have glazed over as she talks so passionately. She’s a doctor from Senegal working on HIV. She’s a good actress.

Doctor Good Actress tells us that in 15 minutes she’s going to the ballet around the corner and it only costs 500 cfa’s, which is about $1. It goes to help women who would otherwise have to work the streets to eat and the director is a friend of hers. So now we’re all going to the ballet. How’d she do that? Damn she’s a GREAT actress!

The ballet was outdoors (of course) and it was packed and eventually they had to turn people away. These folks love their culture. (I thought about some of our dance troupes like Muntu Dancers, and how they struggle. Wouldn’t they love the average neighborhood people to flood their events.) The dancers were great fun, the orchestra was also magnificent, half of them drummers. It was fun and everyone enjoyed it, but where was J-F and Dr. Beautiful?

Oh no, now where will I sleep? I clutch my Hotel Independence key, and I was so close. Joanna says I could stay with her. Ok. (but she’s not at the Independence:-(

As we’re leaving J-F and Doctor Love show up and he’s adamant about me staying with him. Seems the good doctor was very interested in him but he has a girlfriend that he loves and didn’t want to mess this up.

I don’t understand. What language is he speaking now? Oh, he’s serious, so I tell him that he is a noble guy and spend half the night telling him he did the right thing. (I guess) He should have no regrets and anyway he still has another night in Ouaga if he wants to change his mind. I’m sure he won’t. I go to bed humming, she’s a Maneater…

Celebrate Pt 11

Time for the FESPACO Awards ceremony.

The awards are beautiful and some even come with cash prizes between 2,000,000-8,000,000 CFA’s. The closing ceremony is much like the open—big spectacle and the President and First Lady of Burkina Faso.

The awards are a bit boring for me, probably because we didn’t win;-O

I don’t feel bad because Raoul Peck wins, I think. I was there but it was a bit too low key. I guess I’m use to American awards where there is an inflection in your voice when you announce the winner. Monotone in French and English make for a drowsy evening. So when they announce, no mentioned, our category, it was hard to tell except I heard Peck’s name along with other names, then some guy that wasn’t Peck went on stage. Later I found out the winner was not Peck but the Haitian film Les amours d'un zombie (The Loves of a Zombie), by Arnold Antonin. No wonder that wasn't Peck on stage.

The ‘doctors without trace’ film I liked, Notre Etranger, won several prizes. The Moroccan film Pegase won the big prize. It was about a girl who created a fantasy world about horses and demons to escape the horrors of incest she was forced to endure. I hear it’s a different approach to a tough subject.

It’s a controversial film and some love it but others absolutely hated it. After the mother half of my Mom/Daughter duo saw it she promised to never come back to FESPACO of it won anything. Uh oh. We decide not to tell her. A winning filmmaker said he just couldn’t understand how THAT film won unless the Moroccans paid someone off. I have no opinion. I didn’t see it because I wasn’t in the mood for incest, horses & fantasy that wasn’t Catherine the Great.

Anyway Salif Keita is tonight!!

There were 2 albino films here, J-F had one and there was another about a 4 year old girl, and she loves Salif Keita. I’ve heard so much about her, and she was there at the concert! She even got on stage and danced with Salif. What a great moment.

It was Salif Keita’s birthday and he threw quite a birthday party for us. We even sang Happy Birthday twice. I love the way they throw money at the performers. His band is awesome, especially the electric kora. Wonderful, great backup singers and four different drummers.

After the concert everyone felt so good that we wanted to go out and celebrate the celebration…and so we did.

Back in the saddle pt 10

I feel better today, not 100% but good enough to go out, not good enough to eat.

Just found out how MUCH that Guy doesn’t like me. It seems there are 2 RELAX hotels. There’s the RELAX ‘Don’t do it’ Hotel of the third floor, that I’m on. And theres the RELAX Hotel on 2 and below that’s a REAL hotel. New carpet, double closets, real bathroom etc. etc. etc. and they have NO lizards! Mine is the lower end 1940’s special that Humphrey Bogart must have come thru on his way to Casablanca—and nothing has been changed since then.

This was the one time I could have acted a little more American and well, not complain but just inquire about the room condition. Doesn’t matter now, I’ve named the lizards and I’d probably miss them.

I find the Africans are terribly inefficient and it drives me crazy, but it’s easy to forgive them because they are so kind. In our fast moving efficient lives it’s easy to forget what basic human decency and graciousness is, especially when you’re Black in America. We become so use to the subtleties and stress of racism it becomes a part of your normal day. You don’t even realize it until you’re away from it.

In the states when Black people have to deal with authority figures like police, guards etc. you know you are more than likely treated with suspicion, contempt or at best ignored. (see driving while Black) If you ask questions or need help then you are an annoyance, that is, unless you are with white people. Then the kind voice ensues. This goes for Black or white authority figures.

In Africa when I would come in contact with authority figures or need help or just walking through the door (I was usually with other Black Africans so they did not necessarily see the ‘American’ me first) everyone was polite and helpful. People greet you with kindness, like cops talk to white people in the USA (they serve and protect everyone from us, cause we are always the bad guy). I found it unnerving at first and it kept happening, “Bonjour” “Bon Soir” A smile, a nod. Damn, is this how white people feel all the time? What was more amazing Black men here were not fearful of the police and they don’t feel like they are seen as the bad guy. That is an amazing load off your shoulders, a load you didn’t even realize you were carrying until the weight is lifted. Whew.

I never knew I was unconsciously approaching authority like a child that is use to being hit and is grateful when they are not beaten, even tho the child has done nothing to be beaten for. I’m going to enjoy this now because I know it will all come to an end when I step off the plane at O’Hare airport. When I get there I’m going to keep my mouth shut, ask no questions and pretend I too am loved.

Sick Pt 9

It’s the middle of the night and my stomach feels like it’s going to explode! I run into the bathroom and proceed to puke my guts out. This goes on for quite a while but I’ll spare you the sordid details. Finally I crawl back into bed and sleep only to awake in the morning with more of the same. OMG will this ever stop? I have not felt this bad since, ?… I’ve NEVER felt this kind of bad before. I’m done.

Can’t do anything all day. Try to go see a film at 6pm in a beautiful outdoor theatre at the Institut Francais. It’s a cute little love story from Cote D’Ivore. The leads are there. I loved the young co-star who played the little brother of the girl. He was a superb actor and he had no lines!

Towards the end of the film I break into a sweat and start to feel nauseas again. It seems Michael and Rashid got ill as well. Something we ate at the party. Luckily they brought some medicine to me for gastro-something. Hopefully I’ll feel better tomorrow, but as for tonight, that’s all for me…